To me the most essential 6 pruning tools and equipment for any gardener would have to be pruners, loppers, hedge shears, pruning saw, pole pruners, pole saw.
While working as a landscape contractor I often had customers and friends asking what pruning tools they should have for personal use.
Some of these suggestions would depend on what you have in your landscaping.
Here are the top 6 tools to consider and what you would use them for.
Hand Pruners or Secateurs
- Bypass Pruners
- Anvil Pruners
- Ergonomic Pruners
- Ratchet Pruners
- High Quality Pruners
- Pneumatic Pruners
- Price Ranges
This would have to be my number one pick as a “must have” tool for any gardener. They come in many different styles, price ranges, usability, and shapes.
Pruners are designed to cut smaller stems and branches up to 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter depending on the brand and style of pruners. The optimal cutting size of material is 1/2 inch or smaller.
Commonly used for cutting off flower heads, vegetables, fruit, nipping back wild tuffs on shrubs, stems and small branches.
Bypass Pruners
The blades on bypass pruners go past each other like a pair of scissors. This will give you a very clean, close cut which allows the plant to heal faster.
This design enables you to make nice tight cuts so that you don’t leave a stub or extra splinters as the end of your cut.
Bypass pruners are best on live wood.
You can cut dead wood but you might get a piece of wood stuck between the blades which can bend them. If you are using a higher quality pruner it doesn’t happen as often and the blades don’t bend as easily.
This is my personal favorite type of pruner because most of what I work on it live wood and for the occasional dead stems they work fine for the most part.
Anvil Pruners
The blade on an anvil pruner closes down onto a flat piece of softer metal. (Think of a knife and cutting board.)
They work best on dead wood.
While you can cut live wood it doesn’t work as well because the blade can’t get as close to the fork or other branch and will leave a bit of a stub.
They will smash both sides of what you are cutting including the part that you are leaving on the plant. This takes the plant longer to heal which can stress the plant.
Anvil pruners come in all shapes, sizes, and price ranges. All the following subheadings can be anvil pruners.
Ergonomic Pruners
Pruners come in many different shapes and sizes. From the angle of the blades to the length of the handles. They even make handles that swivel as you cut the stem.
You will also find that they have different levels of padding on the handles. From just bare metal or wood to latex coated to cushion wrapping.
Ratchet Pruners
Ratchet pruners can be either the bypass style or the anvil style of pruner.
If you have a weaker grip strength or arthritis a ratchet pruner might
This mechanism makes cutting bigger stems and branches a breeze. Up to 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. And the
High Quality Hand Pruners
What makes a pruner or secateur “high quality”? It more or less comes down to the material they are made out of which will determine how well they sharpen and hold their edge.
There are other factors, they have adjustable bolts so as they wear down from use and sharpening, you can adjust the blade. You can also purchase replacement parts such as the spring and blades for them. The catches also tend to be better designed and function longer.
You can also easily take better quality pruners apart for cleaning which makes it much easier to remove sap and dirt that builds up over time.
Air or Pneumatic Pruners
For jobs where you are pruning all day for days on end, you will want to consider power assisted pruners. For example, vineyards or orchard workers will invest in such equipment.
The equipment will involve an air pressure tank, hose, and pruning unit. When looking into this type of equipment you will need to know exactly the type of pruning you will be doing to purchase the correct setup for you.
The air tanks can be a “backpack” version or one that you just set down and have a long hose. Then you would move it as you go.
Price Ranges
No matter what your budget is there will be a good pruner that you can purchase. On the low
Pneumatic and hydraulic pruners can be around $2,000 for a setup.
Loppers
- Bypass Loppers
- Anvil Loppers
- Ratchet Loppers
- Extending Handle Loppers
- Battery Loppers
- Electric Loppers
- Pneumatic Loppers
- Price Ranges
After a good pair of pruners you will want a lopper for those stems and branches that are just too big for the hand pruner. Loppers are great for limbs and stems that are up to 2 inches in diameter.
There are many different types of loppers on the market today from just plain loppers to ones with special features. Below are many different types of loppers.
Loppers will give you a longer reach for those higher limbs, for shrubs that have thorns, or shrubs with a wide base of stems to be able to reach deep inside the plant.
Bypass Loppers
Just like the bypass pruners, bypass loppers work similar to scissors in that it has 2 blades that pass by each other to make the cut.
This style of lopper work best on “live” wood. “Dead” wood tends to get stuck between the blends which can cause damage to the blades or even break or bend them.
The bypass loppers will give you the cleanest and best cut on limbs up to 2 inches or so. Because of how it works you are able to make your cuts close to the trunk of branch so that you don’t leave a stub which takes longer to heal over.
If you could only have one lopper, I would purchase this type because you can prune dead wood if needed.
Anvil Loppers
The anvil lopper has one blade that strikes in the center of a flat plate (piece of softer metal) with a slight groove in it. Think of a knife on a cutting board.
This style of lopper works best on “dead” wood. You can use it on “live” wood but it smashes the stem or branch as it cuts. This makes it harder for the plant to heal over the cut area.
Another issue with trying to use this type of lopper on live wood is that it leaves a stub because the blade is centered and the edge of the plate it strikes sticks out a bit from the edge of the blade.
If your main purpose for a lopper is cutting dead stems and branches then it is worth the purchase.
Ratchet Loppers
Ratchet loppers can be either the bypass or anvil style. What makes this type of lopper unique is that it uses a mechanism that assists you so that you are able to cut larger diameter limbs easier.
The mechanism can be a lever system, a cam / gear system, or ratchet system. These systems enable you to get more leverage to cut with even if you are not the strongest person.
Many ratchet loppers are marketed by telling you how much more force you will be exerting on the branch compared to just a regular setup. You will see 3X, 7X, etc… models.
Two things with these types of loppers:
- One – when you have more parts, you have more that can go wrong mechanically.
- Two – the mechanisms will make the head part heavier and add more bulk which can make it harder to get the blades in the best place to make the cut.
These types of loppers will usually run a little to a lot more price wise. You will definitely want to replace the blades since you run the risk of damaging the blades with all the leverage.
Extending or Telescopic Handle Loppers
Extending handle or telescopic handle loppers enable you to cut limbs or stems that are a little bit further away.
Loppers with adjustable handles can be the bypass or anvil style and they can be regular or ratchet type.
Something to consider is that the adjustable handles do add more overall weight to the tool. It will depend on the material the handles are made from.
Another consideration is that the longer the handles the smaller the opening you can make to accept the limb. Your arms just won’t be long enough to make the jaws open completely.
Battery Loppers
Battery-powered loppers are basically the same as the battery-powered pruners. They just might have a slightly bigger jaw opening. They don’t have long handles like a typical lopper but can still cut up to 2-inch stems.
There are also models that they call loppers but I would classify they more in the chain saw category since they have a chainsaw chain that does the actual cutting.
The commercial grade level actually has a battery backpack that you wear with a cord that runs to the pruning tool.
Electric Loppers
Electric loppers or electric pruners help the user by using the electric motor to power the blades. So if you are someone that has to prune all day or maybe you have weaker grip and arm strength this can be a great option.
If you have a smaller yard an electric lopper might be a good choice. For bigger yards it becomes a bit much running extension cords long distances. You might look into the battery powered version instead.
Pneumatic Loppers
Pneumatic or air loppers are an excellent option when you are pruning all day for days on end. These tend to be a bit much for homeowner use.
Typically you will find this sort of tool at vineyards or orchards where workers prune all day for months.
They will either be powered by a stand alone unit with a long air hose to power the lopper or it will be powered by a backpack air unit that the worker wears.
Price Ranges
Have you heard the saying, “you get what you pay for”? This holds true for loppers as well. You can find loppers for under $20 to over $200. Most good quality loppers with be in the $70 to $150 range.
You are paying for better blade metals that take and hold a sharp edge longer for easier cutting.
You are also paying for better quality handles that don’t bend or break on the bigger material.
If you are looking at the powered loppers you can spend few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars for the hydraulic loppers.
Some of what is going to determine the price will be the features of the loppers. Do they have extension handles? Do they have a ratchet system? Are the blades replaceable?
Just decide the features you need and purchase the best you can afford. Loppers are a gardening tool that will last for years to come so it is more like an investment.
Pruning Saws
In this section I am referring to handheld pruning saws. The pole saw is covered below.
For branches and stems that are larger than 2 inches, you will have to use a pruning saw instead of loppers or pruners.
Pruning saws are different from normal carpenter saws in that they cut on the pull and the push action.
The average saw blade length will be 12 to 18 inches. You can find saws with shorter blades.
The teeth will be bigger with a wider kerf which makes a wider cut that allows you to cut without the blade being pinch as easily. They are normally triangle shaped so they are sharp on both sides of the tooth.
There are many style of pruning saws:
- bow saw
- fixed handle saw
- folding handle saw
- curved blade
- straight blade
Bow Saw
The bow saw is designed more for cutting wood that has already been removed from the tree or for cutting the whole tree down where you have plenty of room like Christmas trees. The arch of the bow makes it harder to get into tight spaces.
The bow design allows for a thinner blade since it is attached at both ends which pulls it tight. The advantage is that you have a narrower kerf which takes less energy for the cutting process.
Fixed Handle Saw
Just like you would imagine, the handle is fixed to the blade with a couple of bolts. The blades can be curved or straight. The handles are usually made out of ash or hickory.
The handles will be curved. This gives you the natural curve pull when cutting.
The biggest disadvantage is that they aren’t as convenient for climbing a tree with and for storage because the whole unit with the blade and handle can be up to 24 inches.
Another consideration is that you will need a sheath or something to cover the teeth while you are carrying or storing the saw. The teeth on pruning saws are very sharp and pointed.
Folding Handle Saw
Most landscape contractors use the folder pruning saw for easier storage and carrying when climbing trees.
The teeth are also somewhat protected since they are pointed into the handle of the saw.
A word of caution – make sure the blade is secure when you open it so that it doesn’t close on your hand while you are cutting if you slip out of the groove. There will be a catch or a thumb nut that you have to tighten once you open the blade.
Curved Blade Pruning Saw
The is the most common design for a pruning saw. They will be wider and stiffer than the bow saw blade since they are only attached on the one end.
Normally they will have 6 teeth per inch that can be used for most purposes.
Straight Blade Pruning Saw
While not as common you will see straight bladed pruning saws. Some will even have teeth on both sides for different cutting material. One side will have 6 to 8 teeth per inch for harding or dry wood. The other side will be 4 to 6 teeth per inch for cutting green or sapwood.
You do have to be careful not to accidentally cut limbs or trunks close to the blade with the top blade part.
Hedge Shears
Unlike pruners, loppers or saws, hedge shears are used for trimming leaves, very small stems, and twigs on shrubs, perennials, or flowers.
They look like giant scissors with straight blades that are about a foot long.
With the long blades they can cut a large area each time you open and close them.
Hedge shears are designed to trim hedges and shrubs into a more formal look, to shape topiary shrubs, or to cut back flowers and perennials at the end of a season.
Hedge shears come in many different types:
- Manually operated hedge shears
- Electric hedge shears
- Battery powered hedge shears
- Gas powered hedge shears
They all accomplish the same tasks just at different levels of effort and efficiency.
Hedge shears are only necessary to have if you have a formally shaped hedge that you have to maintain.
Manually Operated Hedge Shears
A good pair of manual or hand operated hedge shears will give the best and cleanest cut which will allow the plant to heal faster and minimize browning of the edge of the leaves.
The manual hedge shears are the ones that look like a giant pair of scissors. The electric and gas powered versions just have one long bar instead with a cutting blade.
Using them will give you a bit of a workout if you have to use them for any length of time.
Electric Hedge Shears
Electric hedge shears cut by using a finger bar system where there is a fixed bar that has a series of fingers or stubs that act as one set of the blades and then there is another moving blade with sharp fingers or cutting stubs that are about an inch long that are the other set of blades.
When the twig or leaf is caught in the finger notch the blade will move past the fixed finger to make the cut.
This can make very quick work of pruning a hedge in a formal shape.
A couple of things to consider. You will have to use electric cords so if you hedge is any distance from a power source you might have to look into battery or gas powered hedge shears.
Second thing is that if the blade is not kept sharp it is very easy for the machine to tear instead of cut the stem or leave causing a shredded, torn leaf that will brown and not heal as fast.
Battery Powered Hedge Shears
Battery powered hedge shears give you the freedom to trim without being restricted by a extension cord. Today’s battery will give you a fair amount of working time between recharging.
You might notice a slight dip in power with the battery version vs an electric power source.
Gas or Petrol Powered Hedge Shears
The gas powered hedge shears are the most powerful for those really big jobs. Plus you can go anywhere with this power source.
The biggest drawback is the weight of the tool. Since it has a gas engine they can weight 10 pounds or more which might not seem like much but after some time with one you can become tired.
The aggressive nature and harder maneuvering of the gas-powered hedge shears make some people recommend starting out with electric or battery powered hedge shears first.
Another drawback can be starting them. With electric and battery version you just have to pull the trigger and you are off and running.
On the low end you will find gas powered shears costing $200 up to the nicer models which can run as much as $500.
Pole Pruners
If you have trees or taller shrubs then pole pruners is a must. Basically think of a hand pruner blades on a pole with a rope hanging down so that when you pull on it the blades will close.
There are other mechanisms that close the jaws besides the rope version. Some have a rod and leverage system or a sliding handle that activate the cutting jaws to close.
Commonly fixed pole lengths are usually 6 to 12 feet. For residential use, they also have telescoping poles that can reach 20 to 30 feet. There are also pole that come in sections that you just add together for the higher branches.
In the commercial world, they have poles that can be up to 40 feet or so. At that height, it can be tricky just to guide the head into the right position for the cut. Normally there is a spotter that helps to guide the person with the pole.
Unlike normal pruners where the bottom blade is the thick blade that is stationary, with pole pruners the top fix blade has a hook shape to be able to “hook” the branch you want to cut. Then the lower blade cuts upward.
Some of the pole pruners will have an attachment for a pruning saw. These saw blades are curved and about 12 inches long and fasten to the opposite side of the pruner tool.
Prices can range from $50 on the low end to $200 or more with most in the $150 range.
Pole Saws
Manual Pole Saws
You can also purchase a pole that only has a saw blade on it. They are light then the combination setup that has the pruner on one side the saw blade on the other.
As you will learn the light the better when using a tool over your head. When you arms are over your head the blood rushes down which makes them fatigue quicker.
Some setup will have a pole with a receiver that can use either the pruner head or just the saw blade.
Electric and Battery Pole Saws
Picture a chainsaw attachment on a pole with a action trigger at the end of the pole where you hold it.
They
The poles lengths vary depending on whether they have a telescoping feature or not. Fixed poles are in the 6 to 8-foot range whereas, telescoping poles can be from 6 to 14 feet.
Electric and battery pole saws tend to be lighter than their gas powered counterparts, but you do give up a little power compared to the gas version.
The electric pole saws do require an electrical power source so depending on where you are pruning you might need a generator for power.
Gas Pole Saws
Gas powered pole saws are very similar to the electric version except you have a small gas engine on the end where you hold it with a gas trigger to regulate the speed of the chain.
Gas pole saws offer more power for faster cutting but you will have to handle more weight which can give your shoulders and arms a good workout.
With either any of the powered pole saws, the longer the extension the harder it is to control the head once you cut through the limb. Hitting the ground with the chain can dull them very quickly.
A Word About Pruning Safety Equipment
You also need to think about safety when you are dealing with limbs overhead and sawdust so please invest in a good pair of safety glasses or face shields and even a hard hat or helmet for the overhead work.
If you are working with chainsaws there is a whole other level of safety equipment to consider such as leg chaps or pants, face shield helmets, hearing protection, and gloves.
Unless you have training, I would recommend calling in the professionals when it comes to cutting trees down or pruning large tree canopies.
Conclusion
In my book, these are the essential pruning tools depending on what plants you have in your yard and garden. I tend to buy better quality tools that will last for years to come and make the task much easier.
There are many other tools that most gardeners will have that can make life easier as you are pruning. I just thought I would mention them:
- Floral Scissors / Snips
- Pruning Knife
- Chainsaw
- Ladders
- Leaf Blowers
- Leaf Rakes
- Leaf Vacuums
- Garden Carts
- Wheelbarrow
- Chipper / Shredder
- Grinders
- Metal Files
- Case / Sheath
- Tarps
Speciality / Sets
- Bonsai Pruning Kits
- Cactus Pruning Tools
- Agave Pruning Tools
